A Mediocre Meal of a Memoir

If you’ve ever been out for dinner in Manhattan, the name of the restaurateur Keith McNally will undoubtedly be familiar to you. Best known as the owner of the celebrity haunt Balthazar—a New York re-creation of a Parisian bistro that is packed to capacity night after night, and has been since it was opened in 1997—English immigrant McNally has established a reputation in his nearly five decades in the restaurant business as a two-fisted, combative but largely beloved figure. He broke through into the wider public consciousness a few years ago when he publicly banned the actor James Corden from Balthazar for being rude to his staff, then rescinded the ban after Corden apologized to him, before reinstating it after deciding that Corden hadn’t been contrite enough.

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